Wild Wonderful Wednesday: Walking in Daalhof

We meet as a congregation in an area of Maastricht called “Daalhof”. This area used to be the surroundings of a roman villa. Then it was farm land. There is still a working farm and a Children’s Farm, which has become a bit more than a petting zoo. It has camels and several other animals that one would more likely find in a zoo. 

In the middle of the neighborhood is a Roman road. It is actually a walking path and bike path, but it is on the same trajectory that the old Roman road took through this area. This road separates the neighborhood into two sections. The section built earlier looks like a more normal neighborhood with apartments and housing blocks. The newer section is sometimes called “doolhof” or maze in a play on words. It is a maze of narrow roads with houses built in small little enclaves. 

If we take a walk out past the border stone, which is on the edge of the neighborhood, we enter Belgium, without really ever knowing it. This is an area where people walk their dogs - and there are lots of people with dogs in the Netherlands. The dirt path leads out to the Albert Canal which runs between the Belgian cities of Liege in the south (French-speaking) and the harbor of Antwerp about an hour’s drive away. 

We enjoy walking around the neighborhood at different times of the year. IN the early Spring the cherry blossoms color several streets pink, while other streets color orange with flags if the Dutch national team is playing and doing well. In February red, yellow and green flags appear in the streets to celebrate Carnaval and we often see people dressed in costume waiting at the bus stop to go into the city center.  

(photo of a section of the "doolhof" in the Spring)

Whatsit Wednesday: Carnaval

Yes, I know. It is Valentine’s Day. But to be honest, Valentine’s Day is an import in Europe. It is a much more recent thing that only entered the culture because of the commercial possibilities of selling all sorts of things to people. In our section of Europe there is a much more important and embedded holiday at this time of year: Carnaval. 

Mind you, not everywhere celebrates Carnaval. In the Netherlands it is only the provinces of Brabant and Limburg (“below the river” is what they say) where the general population is culturally and historically Catholic. In Belgium, which is almost completely culturally and historically Catholic, Carnaval is also not celebrated everywhere. It is certainly celebrated in Belgian Limburg where we live. 

Carnaval actually begins in November. On the 11th day of the 11th month, things kick off. The “11” is considered the crazy number or hour - since it is not 12. There is a good sermon in there somewhere about why 12 is considered perfect, but that is for another time. In November all of the Carnaval organizations make their plans and start things off. And there are lots of organizations: schools, the scouts, ladies groups, activities for seniors and more. Each neighborhood or village has their own Carnaval group. 

In the winter months leading up to February the time is filled with readying the float, making your costume, planning what you will do, visiting other groups, choosing a prince and saving some money for the big day. Everything really starts on the Friday before Ash Wednesday. Carnaval is tied to Easter. Ash Wednesday is 42 days before the Passion and Easter. For several days, there are parades, festivals, loud music, dancing and lots of drinking. Everyone can do all sorts of crazy (and unholy) things on these days before the days of fasting begin. 

You might be familiar with some of this if you ever watched the Disney version of “The Hunchback of Notre Dame”. In the movie, Quasimodo is chosen as Prince Carnaval and they go to unmask him - but it is not a mask! This is a time to poke fun at the government or institutions. It was historically the one time of the year that criticism could be made of such institutions without fear of attack. 

Some people enjoy the music, the color and the frivolity. But I have been told that you have to be born into it. I was not. It clashes with principles in my life with God as King, my desire to serve Him in every aspect of my life. But it is a reality that one has to deal with in this area. The stores close down, the streets are blocked for the parade (and every village closes on a different day) and one can see people in various-colored costumes heading to a party somewhere. During the day it is often whole families. In the evening it is always young people and adults. 

Today, Wednesday, all of the frivolity ends and the time of fasting begins. Many will go to a Catholic Church to get their ash cross on their head. Some will truly consider fasting and thinking about other things in this time. It may last about as long as some of the New Year’s resolutions lasted. But Carnaval will be put away until it is awoken again on the 11th of the 11th this year. 

Once upon a time Wednesday - Carnaval

Belgium is considered a Catholic country as is the southern area of the Netherlands.  Many of its practices and traditions come from Catholic culture. Some of these traditions are interwoven with other cultural traditions. 

From Ash Wednesday until Easter, many will celebrate some form of Lent, although it is not nearly as stringent as in past generations. This is a time of fasting. Many more, especially in the area where we live, will celebrate the days before Ash Wednesday. The Tuesday before is called Shrove Tuesday in English. In French it is known as Fat Tuesday - or better known as "Mardi Gras". 

In the Belgian province of Limburg, and the corresponding province of Limburg in the Netherlands where Maastricht is located, Carnaval is celebrated extensively. In Maastricht it officially begins on the 11th of the 11th - November 11 - at 11:11. It ends on Shrove Tuesday late with some sort of closing ceremony. In Maastricht a copy of a statue on the central market is hoisted in the air. 

The biggest part of Carnaval is the three days leading up to Ash Wednesday. People wear amazing costumes - in the past handmade, but more and more likely store-bought these days. There is lots of music and a specific type of song making fun of all sorts of things. And there is a good bit of drinking - although the real celebrators of Carnaval would say that they do not overly consume, that would be the people from the north who only come to get drunk. 

Carnaval moves with the lunar calendar and is connected to Easter, so it can be early in the year and face extremely frigid temperatures, or later and enjoy some sun. Not everyone from the two Limburgs like the celebration, but everyone knows that they have to take in into account. Stores close and businesses have to deal with employees being gone. And then 40 days of fasting come and people look forward to Easter. 

In 2020 Carnaval coincided with the arrival of a novel virus and everything shut down. in 2022, after 2 years of lockdowns and a year of no celebration, Carnaval announced the return to "normal".