Whensday: May 1066

This day in 1066 was a Sunday according to the Julian calendar. Preparations were being made for the battles to come which would change English history forever. Tostig, married to Judith of Flanders, was ready to attack his brother, Harold Godwinson who would become King of England. 

As Edward the Confessor had died and Tostig’s brother tried to undue a deal between Edward and William of Normady, Tostig tried to take his place. He used ships provided by Count Baldwin V of Flanders, his brother-in-law. But Tostig would join forces with Harald of Norway but lose to the English at the Battle of Stamford Bridge and run off to Scotland. 

Also in May, William the Bastard, Duke of Normandy, was making his case for the kingship of England by the Pope. William was married to Mathilde of Flanders, the daughter of Baldwin V who had leant the ships to Tostig. William would go on to conquer England, becoming William the Conqueror. Whenever he was in England making the conquest certain - which took many years - he left Mathilde to run Normandy.

The city of Caen, where William and Mathilde had their castle and two abbeys (one for women and one for men) celebrates its millennium anniversary this year. It was 1000 years ago, in 1025, that first mention is made of the word “Cadomus”, an ancient form of the name of the town. These days Mathilde of Flanders would refer to Queen Mathilde of Belgium, wife of King Philip.

Where oh Where Wednesday: the town where we live

When I put my return address to paper or answer someone as to where we live, I name the town of Lanaken. But Lanaken is actually 7 different towns or villages all combined back in the years just before we moved here. The largest town is Lanaken itself, a town of some 11,000 inhabitants. But we actually live in the small village of Neerharen. 

Neerharen is the opposite village of “Opharen” on the other side of the river which is a short 500 meters from our back door. The river has ever been the border between the Netherlands and Belgium - at least as long as Belgium has existed. “Op” means above and “Neer” means below. So our village was the vial leg below the river. The other one received a castle at some point and so has become “Borgharen” and is a neighborhood of the city of Maastricht now. 

Our village can be found on maps of Napoleon when he was taking parts of Europe over, bringing some semblance of formal administration with him. The house across from us is from the 19th century and the castle to which our street would lead (if the canal did not cut across it) has elements from the 13th century. So this place has been around for some time. 

The village north of us, which is still part of the conglomerate of Lanaken, is called “Rekem”, although it used to be “Reckheim”. It had even been its own little city with city rights. The castle which housed the lord at the time has been a psychiatric hospital and now serves tourists. The village south of us, Smeermaas, is where the border crosses in fromt of the river bringing everyone into the next country. Both of these villages are where the stores are situated that we use in our daily lives. Our village has a butcher and some restaurants, but no real stores. 

Neerharen does have what some call the Gold Coast. As I explained recently to a visitor from Kenya, it is along this Gold Coast, on the other side of the main road splitting the village, that the truly rich people live. Of course, even the houses on our side of the village were more than large enough to count as a Gold Coast for him. 

The canal behind our house, built in the 1920’s, has bunkers from WWII as a reminder of a more terrible time. The canal itself carries boats ferrying goods from the harbor of Antwerpen to the harbor of Rotterdam and everywhere in between. The provincial road which cuts through the village used to be a tramway carrying passengers and goods from Maastricht to Maasmechelen and further. 

We are thankful for the place we have been able to live and bring up our family while also sharing the truth and joy of living with Jesus. We have good neighbors in a quiet neighborhood full of history. It is a small place surrounded by busy life on all sides. 

(The picture is of our boys, when they were boys, playing in our street.)

Whodunit Wednesday: Eddy Merckx and Remco Evenepoel

Belgium and The Netherlands are cycling countries. Every Saturday and Sunday we can see the groups of cyclists flits by along our canal. When we had the dog and went walking, we always had to watch out - although you can hear these groups coming from afar. Even though they are bicycling quite fast, they seem to be going at a normal pace for them, gabbing as they pedal. 

Anyone who follows cycling knows the name Eddie Merckx. Many other names may also come to mind (from various countries), but this is the one almost every cyclist will mention. That is because he won the Giro d’Italia 5 times, The Tour de France 5 times, the Vuelta once and he was world champion 3 times. He had 521 total wins and was known as the best cyclist of his generation. 

This past year Remco Evenepoel did something amazing. In 2023 he became only the 2nd cyclist in history to win the road race and the time trial in the World Championships. At the Olympics this summer he won the gold medal at both the time trial and the road race despite getting a tire puncture. He is the first man to win both gold medals. 

Evenepoel surpassing some of what Merckx did is like when Hank Aaron surpassed Babe Ruth. And this by a young man who was also played soccer for Anderlecht and the under 16’s for the Belgian national team before putting all of his energy into cycling. To live in a time when you see history being made is amazing. 

Where oh Where Wednesday: Paris Olympics

In just 2 days the Olympic Games will begin in Paris, France. The plan is to have the opening ceremony along the Seine river, which runs through the city center. Preparations have ben extensive, from trying to make sure that the water is clean (several events will take place in the river) to trying to make sure that no one will be able to cause any Upraor during the opening ceremonies. This has meant basically closing down large parts of the city center - often even to those who live there. 

The Olympics have been in Paris before. This will be the third time that Paris has hosted the games although the last time was in 1924 - 100 years ago. Paris also hosted the games in 1900. So it has been awhile. Paris has plenty to offer as host city, but there has been quite a bit of competition those the event until more recently when cities have come to see how expensive everything can become. 

In 2024 there will be a total of 32 sports planned for the competition. Some newer sports include 3x3 basketball (which first appeared in the 2020 games), breakdancing (first time this year), karate, sport climbing and surfing. In earlier versions of the games in Paris, people could have competed in croquet, polo, or even tug of war. 

This year several events will be hosted in some unique venues. The equestrian events and modern pentathlon will be held at the chateau de Versailles. Beach volleyball will be contested in a venue built at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Archery, athletics and road cycling will take place next to Invalides (where Napoleon is buried). At the Place de La Concorde you could watch 3x3 basketball, breaking, BMX freestyle cycling and skateboarding. 

Interestingly, some of the events will not be in or even near Paris. Surfing will be contested in Tahiti. Several of the soccer (football) games will be played in Nice, Lyon and Marseille. The sailing will also be hosted in Marseille. But the tennis will of course be held at Roland Garros, in Paris. 

For many tourists, this organization of the games in Paris was a sign that this year was not the best to visit the city. Many people figure that the city will simply be too busy because of the games. Interestingly, the prices of hotels and bed and breakfast accommodations has hit almost rock bottom because of this reality. It seems that Paris will have fewer visitors than normal this summer. 

We will be down at camp for much of the games, but the rest we will watch online from a distance. We will be watching Belgian, Dutch and American athletes in various disciplines. Which sports do you enjoy following the most?

Where oh where Wednesday: Friesland

It has always been interesting to me to see how many places are called “land” in Dutch. It makes it quite easy to understand where things are. Germany is “Duitsland”, England is “Engeland” and one that most English speakers would recognize, New Zealand is “Nieuw Zeeland”. This last one was of course named after the Dutch area of Zeeland. The new one was found and named across the oceans. Australia was also originally called New Holland. 

So when I look at a map of the Netherlands, one of the more interesting areas is up in the north and is called “Friesland”. This is all the more interesting because the area was basically its own country before and its language is not the same as Dutch. The Friezen (those from Friesland) speak a language that can be understood by many Dutchmen, but is different. 

The people of this province are also extremely proud of their heritage. The Frisia - the germanic people who inhabited and conquered the area from Bremen (in present-day Germany) to Brughes (in present-day Belgium) are mentioned in the Roman histories in the 4th century BC. But the area experienced a political and climatological downturn of two centuries where flooding and political pressure meant that no one lived in the area in the north. 

These Frisians fought for their freedom against the vikings, the Dutch of Holland and later the Hapsburg empire until they became a part of the Dutch Republic in the 17th century. Today their heritage is shown in local customs, in the flags of local football teams and in the language which is still spoken. As a matter of fact, Frisian must be available to all those going to court in Friesland. 

The province is home to some amazing natural beauties, including the Waddenzee and its islands. The city of Leeuwarden is the capitol of the province which boasts a population of more than 600,000. 

Where Oh Where Wednesday: Haarlem or Harlem?

In October 1982 I moved to Haarlem, the Netherlands. I had been there on a campaign the summer before with a program from York College called the Master’s Apprentice Program (MAP). Now I would be working with the evangelist in Haarlem (Jim Krumrei) for 2 years in the same program. 

I have never been to Harlem, in Manhattan. We had some travel time while visiting Sean and Jill this past Spring, but we didn’t make it to Harlem. Harlem is a neighborhood in Upper Manhattan. We were staying down in Chinatown, not far from where Sean and Jill live and work. Most people think of Harlem as a black neighborhood, considering its history in the 20th century. 

Originally, Harlem was a Dutch village, organized in 1658 in New Amsterdam - which would become New York. It was named after the city in the Netherlands. It has been home to large Jewish and Italian populations as well as the African-American migration in the beginning of the 20th century. Harlem in the 1920’s and 30’s was the place to be in many ways. 

Haarlem - in the Netherlands - is the capital of the province of North Holland. It received its city rights in 1245 and the first walls were built in 1270. It is sat on a thin strip of land which is above sea level and surrounded by bits that are below sea level (which is much of the country). The nearby airport of Schiphol is built on what is literally “ship hollow”. It is home to the painter Frans Hals and was famous for tulips, printing and beer brewing. 

I remember learning to speak Dutch among the local stores and listening to playing children. Learning how to talk about my faith with people who were sometimes interested and often not, taught me plenty about people and myself. I was thankful for the areas close by that also afforded respite and comfort. 

From Haarlem I could bicycle to Spaarndam where the statue of the boy with his finger in the dike stands. The statue is based on a book written by an American who clearly did not know what a dike looked like. On the other side of the city I could bike out to the dunes and the sea to watch the sun rise. Or I could head downtown and enjoy the busy market on market day, walk past the cathedral or consider the history that you can simply breath in wherever you walk in the city, like the smell of a sharp cheese. 

It was in this city, on the steps of the city hall, that my colleagues Ruud and Karla were married. Not far from the city hall is the home of Corrie ten Boom. Just a short walk further and you are among the canals where in the Spring a market is held throughout the night to sell flowers. Two years is not very long in a lifetime, but for a young man it was a time to fill up on amazing memories. 

We are still very thankful for the church in Haarlem, being able to share time with our brothers and sisters there whenever we can see them - even if it is elsewhere. Most recently we were able to send time with members of the congregation during Family camp. Jim and Ruth Krumrei, who are now in their 90’s, came to Family Day just 2 weeks ago. 

I haven’t visited Harlem yet. But I hope that we get the chance some day. Whether Harlem or Haarlem, both places are full of intricate, complicated, enticing history. 

Where oh Where Wednesday: Luxembourg

The Benelux is a combination of three countries: Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg. All three countries together would be hard to find on a globe if you didn’t know where they were to be found (Northern Europe, between Great Britain, France and Germany). And yet these three countries economically were the foundation of the European Economic Union. The capitol city of Luxembourg is also one of the four institutional seats of the European Union (together with Brussels, Frankfurt and Strasbourg). 

Luxembourg is officially a Grand Duchy with connections to the Netherlands and produced several emperors of the Holy Roman Empire in the 14th century. This tiny country (less than 1000 square miles) with a population of fewer than 700,000 still carries its weight. They were a founding member of NATO and one of six founding members of the European Economic Community (which became the European Union). Luxembourgish politicians were founders of the EU, father of the Euro and presidents of the European Commission. 

Luxembourg was a stalwart of the steel industry until the decline of this industry in the 1970’s. It then became a global financial and banking hub. Since the 21st century the country has focused on developing into a knowledge economy, including a national space program. They were also considered a tax haven and were placed on a grey list of countries with questionable banking arrangements. 

Its central location, stable economy and low taxes make it a favorite for the telecommunications industry as well as students traveling in Europe. Back when I lived in the Netherlands, young people (under 26) could buy an Interrail pass to travel the rail lines throughout Europe. But you were not allowed to use the rail in the country you purchased the card. So everyone purchased the card in Luxembourg and could travel everywhere else. 

In Luxembourg the citizens speak Luxembourgish which is partially intelligible by those who speak High German, but it also includes at least 5000 words of French origin. As a Dutch speaker, I often wonder when I hear a Luxembourg tv station whether I am hearing Dutch, German or French. Yes. That is what I am hearing. 

Luxembourg is a beautiful place to visit, easy to reach (only about 1.5 hours from our house) and varied in every way. You can go hiking in the mountains, see cultural activities in places like Echternach or discover history in Luxembourg city. When we first moved to Belgium we even enjoyed visiting the Chi Chi’s which could only be found there (and it was the only place to find Tex-Mex and Mexican food). 

Where oh where Wednesday - Spa

Around the world people who speak English will talk about going to the spa. This could mean a day at a place where you can luxuriate in pools and hot waters and in, well, spa’s, while also getting a massage and/or beauty treatments of all kinds. But that word comes from a real place, a city called Spa. 

In Roman times the area of the town of Spa was known as ‘Aquae spadanae’. In medieval times drinking from a spring with iron-bearing water was thought to help some illnesses. The Walloon-French word for fountain was ‘espa’. But this Roman custom became popular everywhere and the word 'spa' took on a general meaning. 

The town itself has hosted noblemen in the 16th century who opposed King Philip II as well as the exiled pretender to the English throne, Prince Charles in the 17th century. There has been a casino there since the 18th century. In 1918 the German army established its headquarters there from where they finally signed the armistice ending World War I. 

It is still a town full of tourists coming to take the waters or play at the casino, and is Now it is also known for the formula 1 race at Spa-Francorchamps. For us Spa is the nearest town to our Bible camp. This is where we go for a day outing with the kids, where the swimming pool is and where we do our grocery shopping. There is a factory where the mineral water is bottled and a putt-putt golf course to take the kids to. The floods in the summer of 2021 raced straight through the downtown of Spa, but things have since been restored to their normal situation. 

Once upon a time Wednesday - The older country

When you walk the streets of Belgium or the Netherlands, you are struck with the age of the place. Most tourists who stop in Belgium want to visit Brughe and walk along the medieval streets. In Amsterdam, one can enjoy the 16th, 17th and 18th century buildings along the canals. Americans will often comment that there is nothing of this age back in the US. 

And yet, both of these countries are younger than the United States of America. Although the Dutch formed a republic in the 16th century, they were not free from Spain until the 17th century. The Kingdom of the Netherlands was formed first in 1815. A short 15 years later the southern section of this kingdom rebelled and became the Kingdom of Belgium (recognized in 1839). 

So while Belgium and the Netherlands have a very rich history, as separate countries they are quite a bit younger than the United States of America which was formed in 1776. Even the republic of France (which is what now exists) was only established in 1792. Germany was first a republic in 1918 after having gotten rid of the monarchy. Which isn’t to take away from all of the beautiful places steeped in history and amazing stories, architecture and culture in each of these countries. 

The village down the street from where we live has a neanderthal site. Maastricht, where we meet with the church, is an old Roman city. I like mentioning to visitors and locals alike that, when Jesus was walking the streets of Jerusalem, the Romans were living in Maastricht. (That's a picture of Maastricht with three of its church buildings)

History is the story of where you have been and how you have been shaped by those places and events. We are thankful to have so much history in so many different places.